Utility: Material and Sustainability

 

In this post I'm going to discuss further about utility style and several materials used in workwear and outdoor clothing. 

Modern Utility Trend

What is Utility Style?

The term 'utility' was introduced during World War II when UK faced shortage of clothing materials which lead to English Board of Trade to promote 'utility clothing' that have strict standard of the amount of materials and labour for their manufactured. These utility clothing are practical and made for outdoor environment. Utility clothing is also known for its functional accessories like pockets, epaulet and belts, that were added to make the most out of the fabric so there will be less waste. These clothing are most likely to have an oversize, straight and stiff silhouette with colour palette of navy blue, military green, neutral grey and browns. Some of the clothing piece of utility aesthetic are cargo pants, jacket, denim shirts paired with boots. 

Properties of Utility Fabric

1. Durability and Strength

Sturdy fabric used typically to withstand wear and tear are cotton canvas, ripstop nylon, or other polyester combination. 

Cotton Canvas

Ripstop Nylon

2. Stretch and flexibility

Although military clothing in the early days were mostly stiff, but as there are more fabric variations today, a lot of people prefer their clothing to be stretchy and flexible. Elastane and spandex fabric are some of the suitable fabric for cargo pants allowing greater freedom of movement.

Elastane

Spandex

3. Weight and thickness

Denim, cotton twill and cotton duck are some of the heavyweight fabric commonly used in outdoor clothing which have a great durability and also added a rough texture utility clothing is known for. 

Cotton Twill

Cotton Duck

4. Water resistance

Nylon fabric like on parachute pants and gabardine fabric for trench coat are the perfect example of waterproof fabric used in outerwear. 

Gabardine

5. Breathability

When considering breathability in utility wear, natural fabric is the best choice. Fabric like cotton, linen and cotton-polyester blends allows air to flow freely, perfect for active days. 

Cotton

Fabric Option for Final 3D Outcome

Last week, I went to fabric store to find out more about types of fabric suitable for my projects. Initially I planned to use nylon parachute fabric for the bubble skirt because I thought the lightweight feature will be perfect to give the skirt its puffiness. However when I went there to look at the fabric, the slippery texture will be challenging to manipulate and hold its structure. Looking around the store, my main focus is to find the military-green fabric which I found in the satin silk fabric rack. Although it's the perfect green color I was looking for, but I still think that it was too slippery and heavy for the bubble skirt. Another idea for the skirt is to use green-color denim for the triangular waist band and translucent fabric like tulle or organza for the bubble skirt. 

Lightweight nylon

Satin silk

As for the top, in the beginning I was thinking of using a grey-pleated dress on the picture below that I found on a charity shop which have the perfect tree-bark texture I was looking for. However I wanted my top to be in khaki color, and I think taking apart the dress to use for my top will not be enough for the whole pattern. Therefore, I'm going to use the suitable fabric that's recommended in the pattern that I bought, which is cotton. Once I finish making my sample prototype, I will do further fabric swatch experiment to know what kind of fabric I'm going to use in my final outcome. 

References:

hainsworth (2018). Military Fabric UK | Military Uniform Cloth | Hainsworth. [online] www.hainsworth.co.uk. Available at: https://www.hainsworth.co.uk/military/military-heritage/ [Accessed 14 Feb. 2025].

lookiero (2024). What is utility style? [online] Lookiero.co.uk. Available at: https://lookiero.co.uk/blog/what-is-utility-style [Accessed 14 Feb. 2025].

northshorecraft (2024). What Fabric Are Cargo Pants Made Of? A Comprehensive Guide To Cargo Pant Materials - North Shore Crafts. [online] North Shore Crafts. Available at: https://northshorecrafts.com/what-fabric-are-cargo-pants-made-of/ [Accessed 14 Feb. 2025].

sustainspectrum (2024). Utility Fabric: Properties, Uses, Features, and Sustainability. [online] Sustain Spectrum. Available at: https://sustainspectrum.com/what-is-utility-fabric/ [Accessed 14 Feb. 2025].

Tonti, L. (2023). Fabric, fit and all the flaps: how to pick a trenchcoat that looks great and lasts. The Guardian. [online] 10 Apr. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2023/apr/11/fabric-fit-and-all-the-flaps-how-to-pick-a-trenchcoat-that-looks-great-and-lasts [Accessed 14 Feb. 2025].

worldofneedlepoint (2025). Utility Fabrics: What They are and What to Do With Them | World of Needlepoint. [online] Worldofneedlepoint.com. Available at: https://www.worldofneedlepoint.com/utility-fabrics/ [Accessed 14 Feb. 2025].