Prototype: Plan and Process

 On the second week, we started to plan our prototype. I decided to make the corset with hip flare as my prototype. The hip flare is inspired by victorian corset that is known for its tight waist and flare on the hip. To make the pattern, the most straightforward way is to draped on mannequin, so that's what I did. This was my first time trying this technique, and thankfully I found a YouTube video by draping class 101 that explain how to drape a corset pattern in detail, the video can be viewed here. 

I started by pinning the draping tape or ribbon on the mannequin based on the corset design that I wanted. It's important to only do it on one side, so when cutting the fabric, both side will be symmetrical. My corset bodice is divided into 4 panels. 

The next step is to cut rectangular calico measuring the widest and highest measurement of the corset panel therefore it will be enough to cover each of the panel. It's also crucial to mark the middle point of the fabric horizontally and vertically for the waist line, so when all the pattern is assemble on paper, it will be easy to match with one another. Next, pin the calico on each panel, making sure the surface is smooth with less wrinkle. To avoid bumps and wrinkles, I cut all around the edges of the calico leaving 1 cm from the draping tape. This is going to help the calico to stretch. Once it already pinned perfectly on top of the panel, next is to trace the panel outline with pencil. 

After draping all four panel, the next step is to transfer the calico pattern into paper and adjust the edges so it match with each panel and smooth the curve. In this process, I found french curve ruler really helpful to define the curves and awkward shape. Next, add 1 cm seam allowance to all edges then transfer it to calico and sewed all the panels together. Ideally I need to make another piece for the lining, but for this prototype I'm going to skip that step. 

Now that the bodice corset is finished, I then moved on to create the pattern for the hip flare. This is the most confusing and overwhelming process of the entire corset-making task. For this, I can't drape on the mannequin because I need to first make a hip pad to drape the hip extension panels. I was thinking of sticking a big bowl on the mannequin hip and then drape over it, but i decided to try making the pattern right from paper bodice pattern. First I measure the length of the panel and the height, then transfer it to paper following the curve shape from the previous pattern. 

However, because I didn't change anything to the pattern, the shape will not be flared if it's sewed or it will only follow the original hip shape. I felt quite overwhelmed because I can't find any tutorial to make the hip flare. Then I remember a technique that my previous tutor use in the fashion design class I attended. The technique requires to split the panel into several pieces but still keeping it intact on the upper side and opened all the pieces with the same measurement and then trace the new pattern. This is exactly what I did, first I cut each panel into 4 pieces and stick it to a piece paper, then I opened the pieces 2 cm measuring from one piece to the other piece and transfer the new pattern. 

Here is what the hip flare pattern looks on the mannequin. I was surprised that this technique turns out working really well, considering I did it on my own without following a tutorial video. 

Now that all the corset pattern is completed, I then attached the hip flare on the corset and added boning on each seam to keep the curve shape. 

Here is how the corset turned out. I still need to figure out how to sewed the boning continuously from one edge of the curve into the other, because the boning is stiff and can't be bend so it's a challenge for me to sewed it on the curvy hip flare.

I also decided to add the drapery shawl from the design sketches on the corset. I really like how the drapery wrap around the other side of the shoulder and the neck. 

Another idea is to add this flower batik pattern beading into the corset. I was inspired by Digo Design corset piece with similar beading pattern on it (refer to Fig.1). The pearl white and gold beads complement  perfectly with the orange and yellow color scheme. I was thinking of incorporating beading in my final garment, therefore I tried the four-flower pattern with pearl beads which surprisingly took a long time to sew. I plan to experiment with another beading project to prepare for my final garment construction. 

Fig. 1Digo Designs 'Orange for the Birds'