To further develop my ideas, I started to turn my vision into sketches. From several design sketches that I have made in the previous post, I choose to combine the sweetheart-neckline corset that has hip flare or hip extension with draped maxi skirt for the women attire. Taking the wayang's attire as my main reference, I added a drapery like a shawl that sewed on the bodice and will go around the neck. I think gold organza or perhaps chiffon, will be the perfect fabric for the shawl to have shimmering effect but still lightweight.
Moving on to the corset, for the fabric I used Balinese songket, because not only does it have a imperial-style pattern but songket is also typically wear to a special occasion, different with Batik that can be use in any occasion, therefore it will be more formal and gives a 'grand' feels to it.
As for the skirt, I was inspired by Krikor Jabotian's 2024 bridal collection (refer to fig.1), that emphasize on the gold-pleated corset with dramatic drapery on both the shoulder and the skirt. The skirt drapery gives a very similar look with the female wayang character's attire that has a dramatic pleated around one hip and is connected into the other side of the hip which the pleats are then let loose into something similar like Balinese Selendang (shawl around the waist). To keep the pleats shape, it need to use stiff fabric like calico or canvas like in Krikor collection, however I want my skirt design to be more flowy with ruffles around the edges, therefore I thought that chiffon fabric will be the best option.
Similar to the women design sketches, for the men design I will be using red and gold color palette which I think the perfect color combination for the 'royal' look I was going for. Taking reference from male wayang character's attire, I added asymmetrical vest with shoulder 'pauldron' (plate armor that cover the shoulder area) on top of white long-sleeve shirt. Most male wayang characters are topless revealing their bare chest, but on my design I wanted to look more contemporary and relevant to today's trend, therefore the long-sleeve shirt will be the base for the attire. On the waist, I added a gold accessories with red and green rocks and baroque pattern around it. For the trouser, I paired a beige baggy trouser with batik wrap skirt on top. To not loose the 'masculinity' feels on the design, I made the skirt draped asymmetrically and loose-fitting. The vest is embellished with gold scales sequins and batik pattern on the bottom, and finished with dangling beads on the edges which was inspired by the wayang marionette attire (refer to fig.2).
Fig. 2
For the children design, I started designing for the girls clothing because it was much more straightforward as I already had some ideas for the design. The shoulder cape is also quite similar to the men's vest design discussed above. I decided to add the square-shaped cape with tassel on the bottom because I think it looks playful and fun. As for the top, I want the children attire to be loose-fitting especially in the waist, so I made the top with bubble skirt silhouette which I think added unique cloud-shape to it. The top is made with Lurik fabric. Lurik is traditional Indonesian textile with stripped pattern. Most lurik fabric are dark-colored like brown, grey and black, but to stick with the playful color scheme of pink and purple, I'm using rainbow colored lurik for the top. For the skirt, it's a simple pleated white chiffon straight-skirt with red fur decoration on the bottom. The design also has the royal Javanese crown as the headpiece which has a ribbon that tied around the chin.
Great designs for your prototype session - very well thought out and executed
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